The
Backwaters
Consult Piri Reis
Let
us turn to the depths of the golf, to its East end. In the
Northeast corner is a fishing harbour, Akyaka (N
370 02,8' E 0280 19,6'). As Akyaka
is right at the mouth of the river Idymus you may find that
it has again silted up, but if you can get into the harbour,
it is a pleasant place to explore by dinghy the backwaters
of Gökova. You cross under a bridge and you sail up a
crystal clear river with remarkable depths. We sounded up
to 18 feet at places. However, this river is so clear that
you "can count the pebbles at the bottom". The further
up you get the more pastoral and picturesque the river gets.
As a road follows its north bank "civilization"
has concentrated on the north banks of the river, where many
contributories deliver clear and cold water from the mountains.
Here you will find a number of simple small yards, which in
a setting not much different than a century ago build and
repair the "piyade"s and the occasional larger boat.
Further upriver you will find a number of restaurants right
on the banks. In particular in winter you may see that they
light a fire and then it is really cosy. Although the fish
does not always look as fresh as in Bodrum, any time I had
the chance the mezes and the fish are superb. I like Halil's
restaurant in particular.
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Halil
Restaurant
Eski Marmaris Yolu, No: 10
48650 Gökova - Akyaka
Turkey
Tel: (252) 243 51 73
Fax: (252) 243 53 73
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Cennet
Restaurant, Fireplace, Ducks on the Stream. Wonderful
in winter as well. |
Picture
from the site of Cennet Restaurant |
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Cennet Restaurant
48650 Gökova - Akyaka
Turkey
Tel: (252) 243 50 37
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The
two streams Kadinsuyu (The Lady Stream, or the Idymus) to
the north and the Akçapinar (The White Springs) to
the south are both navigable for small craft. We recommend
not to motor into the Idymus, as the water is extremely clear.
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Some
views of the Idymus river
(Click
on images below for full view)
After
your lunch you can have yourself swept back to your boat –
but this is not the end of your "exploration" of
the backwaters. Put out to sea in your dinghy and about one
mile to the south you will find the bar and the estuary of
the second river, the Akçapinar. This estuary is navigable
as well, local boats and ferries up to perhaps 30 feet are
regularly hauled out deep on the river.
Some
views of the backwaters of Akçapinar
(N
370 02,1' E 0280 19,8')
(Click
on images for full view)
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This
river Akçapinar, not as clear as the Idymus, will lead
you to the village of the same name. Again on the way you
will pass a number of "piyade" and when you come
to the village you will pass a boat ramp to your port and
then you are in the heart of a village. Several restaurants
and cafes are available. This village has been quiet since
now the road to Marmaris bypasses it. However, walk to the
very impressive avenue of the majestic eucalyptus trees, which
were planted here over a century ago to dry the malaria infested
swamps and to provide stable ground for the road to Marmaris.
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